Anand Mahadeshwar, senior vice president, skincare and haircare development for North America at L’Oréal Research & Innovation (R&I), took time to chat with Happi about what’s driving skincare at the beauty giant. The world’s biggest beauty company’s roster of best-selling brands includes flagship L’Oréal, Lancôme and LaRoche-Posay, among others.
 
Mahadeshwar earned his PhD in physical chemistry from the Department of Chemical Technology in Mumbai, India. He initially worked for major FMCG brands in the UK, Germany, Thailand and India. In 2012, Mahadeshwar joined L’Oréal USA as the vice president of R&I hair care, playing a key role in launching haircare and styling franchises for both L’Oréal’s consumer and professional products divisions. His expertise lies in transforming pipeline innovations to drive business growth.
 
In 2018, he became the head of development for haircare, hair color, skin and makeup in Southeast Asia. Based in Mumbai, he was pivotal in propelling hair color sales to the No. 1 position in India. By 2020, he was named the development head of haircare and styling for North America. With a foundation in science and hair knowledge, Mahadeshwar strengthened ties with hairdressers, fostering consumer-centric innovations.
 
In 2022, he was promoted to senior vice president, overseeing haircare, styling and skin care for R&I in North America.
 
According to Mahadeshwar, here are key emerging trends shaping skincare:
 

Inclusivity and Personalization

“By 2040, two-thirds of the world's population will have melanin-rich skin, and the US is becoming a majority-minority nation. The beauty industry is poised to celebrate this diversity, focusing on personalization like never before to cater to all skin needs and concerns. At L’Oréal Research & Innovation, we're not just predicting the future but creating it. 

For example, the Lancôme Skin Screen analysis service uses artificial intelligence to measure 13 clinical parameters of skin health, such as wrinkles, firmness and UV damage. Inspired by clinical studies and dermatologist-approved devices, Skin Screen helps beauty advisors establish a “diagnosis” and provide personalized advice to consumers for a customized routine. This cutting-edge service was developed over the course of 20 years of research, which comprises 15,000 photos of clinical signs of skin health gathered in compliance with responsible personal data processing standards.” 
 

Hyperpigmentation

“As global skin tones deepen, the demand for solutions to hyperpigmentation rises. These individuals are prone to hyperpigmentation induced by factors such as UV radiation and pollution. There remains a large unmet need for ingredients that help balance pigmentation and even skin tone. We recently discovered a new molecule, Melasyl, that helps to reduce excess melanin by a novel mechanism that is respectful of the skin’s natural pigmentary process. Stay tuned for more very soon!”
 

Sustainability

“The world demands sustainability, and we answer with innovation. Biotechnology and fermentation processes will likely play a more significant role in producing sustainable activities without depleting natural resources. At L’Oréal, we implemented Green Sciences in our labs; this strategy blends biology and technology to create beauty products that don't compromise on performance and increasingly respect the limits of our planet. We also invest in biotech companies, such as, recently, Geno and Debut, which respectively help us create sustainable alternatives for essential cosmetic ingredients and build a technological platform to create natural raw materials in only six weeks. These efforts support our broader sustainability program, L’Oréal for the future.”
 

Skin Microbiome

“The importance of the skin's microbiome has gained traction in recent years. We anticipate a stronger emphasis on ingredients that balance, nourish and respect the skin's microbiome, promoting a healthy skin barrier. We recently announced a partnership with UC Berkeley to advance bio-based cosmetics further, leveraging our microbiome science.”
 

Daily Photoprotection

“Did you know that 80% of aging signs (pigmentation and wrinkles) are caused by exposure to the sun? Considering the impacts of sun exposure and climate change on our skin, it is key for L’Oréal’s R&I to harness daily photoprotection in skincare and makeup products formulated with UVA and UVB filters, which provide broad spectrum protection from sun rays. By combining powerful anti-aging actives (such as vitamin C and vitamin E) with a filtering technology and an optimized formulation system called Netlock Technology, we are pushing skincare daily sun protection to the next level.

For example, with our Netlock Technology, the filters are encased in fine droplets of gelled oils, which allow the formation of a continuous and flexible film on the skin’s surface. The ultra-thin film created is invisible, leaving no trace or greasy or sticky effect on the skin. The skin feels fresh and moisturized with products like the Anthelios range by La Roche-Posay.”

Longevity Health & Beauty Management

“Aging starts young, and so should care: 40% of Gen Z have a 10-step skincare routine, and in America, those under 30 underwent more cosmetic surgery procedures than those over 50. As we can see, the new generation is proactive, and we're meeting them head-on. Skin aging can begin as early as your twenties, with mild signs such as the appearance of fine lines. The natural aging process accelerates with time, and the skin's collagen production decreases. Collagen works to support the skin by giving it the firmness and elasticity it needs to function properly. With this natural decrease, the skin will tend to lose its suppleness and even its radiance. Furthermore, the impacts of external and internal exposome factors accelerate the aging signs.
 
For example, Renergie H.C.F. Triple Serum by Lancôme combines hyaluronic acid, vitamin C plus niacinamide, and ferulic acid in a potent formula targeting aging signs like volume loss, wrinkles, and dark spots. Additionally, Lancôme’s Absolue Dual-Led Youth Treatment offers groundbreaking LED therapy with a precise luxury formula delivery, enhancing skin texture and boosting collagen for smoother skin.”

Hormonal Science

“Menopause brings profound skin changes. Our focus is to understand these changes and counter them. Products from the Vichy Neovadiol range emphasize our commitment to offering solutions at every stage of a woman’s life.”

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